How to Clean Your Engine Compartment

Engines run cooler and more efficiently when a thick film of crud doesn’t interfere with heat transfer। This is especially important with modern engines that operate hotter in more compact engine compartments. Clean engines make it easier to see oil, automatic transmission and coolant leaks and monitor the condition of drive belts. Dirt and dust also can cause premature wear of components and belts. And it’s much more pleasant to make repairs in a clean engine compartment. If you need just one more reason to keep your engine spotless, consider that keeping engines free of oil and fuel-soaked gunk goes a long way toward preventing underhood fires.
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Detect a radiator problem

* When the car is cold, look at the radiator overflow.
* Open the radiator cap and look inside the radiator.
* If the radiator is empty, fill with antifreeze or water, and close the cap. The overheating problem may be caused by problems.
* Flush the radiator if it is not empty but the water is rusty. You may need a new radiator if that does not correct the problem.
* If it is leaking, flush the radiator and treat with a commercial radiator sealant. You may need a new radiator if this does not correct the problem.
* Look at both the lower and upper radiator hoses located at the top and bottom of the radiator on the backside and held by hose clamps.
* Make sure the hoses are securely clamped to the radiator and are not leaking.
* See a mechanic if the car is still overheating.

Perform a Radiator Flush

Your car's radiator needs to be clean to be cool. As time goes on, your car's radiator builds solid deposits that can clog the cooling system. A quick, inexpensive radiator flush can keep the system in shape.

Before you start your radiator flush, make sure you have everything you need. There's nothing worse than draining your radiator only to realize that you need to drive to the auto store for something!

What you'll need to perform a radiator flush:

* Phillips head screwdriver or wrench (whichever your radiator drain requires)
* Cloth rag
* Radiator Flush solution
* Coolant
* Funnel
* Used coolant receptacle

*Be sure to let your engine cool completely before you loosen or remove the radiator cap. Hot coolant can be painful!Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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Make your engine more efficient and ...

Increase displacement - More displacement means more power because you can burn more gas during each revolution of the engine. You can increase displacement by making the cylinders bigger or by adding more cylinders. 12 cylinders seems to be the practical limit.

Increase the compression ratio - Higher compression ratios produce more power, up to a point. The more you compress the air/fuel mixture, however, the more likely it is to spontaneously burst into flame (prior to the spark plug igniting it). Higher octane gasolines prevent this sort of early combustion. That is why high-performance cars generally need high octane gasoline - their engines are using higher compression ratios to get more power.

Stuff more into each cylinder - If you can cram more air (and therefore fuel) into a cylinder of a given size, you can get more power from the cylinder (in the same way that you would by increasing the size of the cylinder). Turbo chargers and super chargers pressurize the incoming air to effectively cram more air into a cylinder.

Cool the incoming air - Compressing air raises its temperature. You would like to have the coolest air possible in the cylinder because the hotter the air is the less it will expand when combustion takes place. Therefore many turbo charged and super charged cars have an intercooler. An intercooler is a special radiator through which the compressed air passes to cool it off before it enters the cylinder.

Let air come in more easily - As a piston moves down in the intake stroke, air resistance can rob power from the engine. Air resistance can be lessened dramatically by putting two intake valves in each cylinder. Some newer cars are also using polished intake manifolds to eliminate air resistance there. Bigger air filters can also improve air flow.

Let exhaust exit more easily - If air resistance makes it hard for exhaust to exit a cylinder, it robs the engine of power. Air resistance can be lessened by adding a second exhaust valve to each cylinder (a car with 2 intake and 2 exhaust values has 4 valves per cylinder, which improves performance - when you hear a car ad tell you the car has 4 cylinders and 16 valves, what the ad is saying is that the engine has four valves per cylinder). If the exhaust pipe is too small or the muffler has a lot of air resistance then this can cause back-pressure which has the same effect. High-performance exhaust systems use headers, big tail pipes and free-flowing mufflers to eliminate back-pressure in the exhaust system. When you hear that a car has "Dual Exhaust", the goal is to improve the flow of exhaust by having two exhaust pipes instead of one.

Make everything lighter - Lightweight parts help the engine perform better. Each time a piston changes direction it uses up energy to stop the travel in one direction and start it in another. The lighter the piston, the less energy it takes.

Inject the fuel - Fuel injection allows very precise metering of fuel to each cylinder. This improves performance and fuel economy.Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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How to Choose a Mobile Video System

1. A brief overview of mobile video



Imagine this: it's summer vacation time. You've got the family packed into the minivan and you've been on the road for hours. It's hot, even with the air conditioning on. But not once have the kids in the back complained, asking if you're there yet. In fact, you've been enjoying the radio, and haven't heard a peep out of them, except maybe the occasional fit of the giggles. How is this possible? You've got the power of mobile video on your side!

Mobile video has really taken off recently as a fun, viable, and even necessary addition to in-car entertainment. Several new SUV and minivan models feature mobile video components as factory options, and a growing number of people have decided to retro-fit their vehicles with video entertainment systems.

Why mobile video?
There are plenty of reasons for stepping up to mobile video, including:
• Entertainment. There's no denying that every trip, from jaunts to the local supermarket to cross-country vacation hauls, are much easier and more enjoyable when the kids have access to engaging entertainment options. Backseat video systems, for which there are plenty of options we'll explore a little later, allow your kids to watch their favorite movies and cartoons, or, in some cases, even play their video game system. As a bonus to you, most incorporate headphones into the system, so they'll be able to hear the movies privately, while you still enjoy the radio up front.
• Safety. Some video systems give you the option of connecting a navigation system, which provides turn-by-turn visual and voice directions, which help you get where you're going efficiently and accurately. Not having to fiddle with conventional maps is a huge advantage, especially if you're driving through unfamiliar territory for the first time. Some systems also allow you to connect a backup camera, which can be a tremendous safety enhancement to larger vehicles, such as RVs.
• The Wow! Factor. Few mobile electronics components cause the stir that mobile video does. Take in-dash receivers with monitors for example — if you've got one installed in your dash, the first time your passengers see the retractable monitor motoring out of the dash and into position, they won't be able to help oohing and ahhing. Some systems offer touch-screen controls, which never fails to impress. Just the on-screen graphics alone are enough to produce delight in most people.
• The car is a fun environment in which to watch movies. It's great to be able to watch your favorite movies in the backseat when the vehicle's in motion. And it's just as enjoyable to pop a DVD in an in-dash receiver, park the car, and start the show. If you go with a comprehensive setup, you can even get true 5.1 home-theater-style sound, which sounds spectacular in the cozy environment of the car.
• The Wild Cards. Mobile video systems drastically expand the number of entertainment options you can have in your vehicle. Movies, video games, local television, even satellite television (we're not kidding) are all available for use in your car, truck, van, or SUV. And mobile video technology just keeps getting better all the time.


What do I need?
We'll discuss individual mobile video components in the pages that follow. Basically, a mobile video setup requires three things:
• A video monitor for displaying the images
• A media player, such as a DVD player or VCR
• An audio component, such as wireless headphones
Some systems contain all the components you need in one package; others require you to assemble and connect a series of components. Which you need depends largely on where you're installing your system, and what you intend to do with it.

Practically speaking, mobile video can be divided between front-seat and backseat systems (although, there's plenty of crossover applications, as we'll see later).

Most often, front-seat systems consist primarily of in-dash receivers with monitors. These receivers fit in both standard-sized and double-sized dash openings, and usually have a monitor that's motorized. Receivers for single-sized dash openings are capable of retracting into the chassis for storage.

Backseat systems usually involve monitors that can be installed in various locations, such as in the headrests or on the ceiling, separate DVD or videocassette players, and audio components (such as wireless headphones). Complete packages that include everything you need for a basic system are also readily available.

Each type of system has its inherent advantages, as we'll learn in the following pages. Which type is the right one for you depends entirely on what you'd like to get out of your system.



2. Mobile video in the front seat

Mobile video, front and center

The easiest way to get a mobile video system that serves the front seats in your vehicle is to install an in-dash receiver with a built-in monitor. These receivers feature monitors (usually LCD, and 6-1/2 or 7 inches) which act as TV screens for your videos, system information displays, and system controllers.

Mobile video receivers are also generally capable of extensive system expansion; most allow you to connect extra audio or video components, plus useful gear like DVD navigation and backup cameras.

If you choose to go this route, you'll most likely want a receiver with DVD playback, which basically acts as an all-in-one solution. In order to play a DVD, you'll have to have your vehicle parked and the emergency brake engaged — this is strictly for safety reasons; you certainly don't want to be distracted by the captivating images of your favorite films while cruising the Interstate at 65 m.p.h.! When you're not watching a film, however, the display will act as your system's command central, and, depending on the model, might even offer touch-screen control. Many video receivers also feature cool graphics, such as equalizer displays, that accompany your music.

The receiver installs just like a standard deck does. The only extra connections you'll need to make are to your emergency brake and any accessories you've chosen to make your ride more enjoyable.
Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle's SRS system.


Front-seat monitors are essential if you're thinking about installing a GPS navigation system (see our Navigation article in the Learning Center for more detail about how these systems work) for turn-by-turn guidance to just about anywhere in the country. Most mobile video receivers have dedicated navigation inputs for same-brand navigation systems, and many have navigation already built-in. And unlike watching a movie, you'll be capable of using the navigation system when the vehicle's in motion (it wouldn't be too useful otherwise, right?), since it's providing essential information.


Backup cameras can come in very handy, too, especially with larger vehicles. The camera, mounted on your rear bumper, gives you a clear view of what's behind you as you back up. Many video receivers have dedicated backup camera inputs. They'll also automatically reverse the image on the screen, so it'll look completely natural to you as you use the screen to navigate backwards.

Possibly the most impressive feature most video receivers have is dual- or multi-zone capability. Receivers with either of these capabilities will have at least one set of audio/video outputs, as well as at least one set of audio/video inputs. Separate monitors and a transmitter for wireless headphones for the back seat can be hooked up to the outputs. Additional sources, such as a video game console, can connect to the A/V inputs. When you engage the dual-zone feature, you can send the signal from one source, like the DVD player or video game console, to the rear monitors and headphone transmitter; the folks in back will be able to enjoy that source. Meanwhile, you can still play the radio, for example, over the car's speakers. The more zones a receiver can control simultaneously, the more diverse your entertainment options get.


3. Mobile video in the back seat


Backseat Cinema
If you're planning on setting up a mobile video system in the backseat, you've got plenty of options from which to choose.

The most common solution is a combination of a component DVD player (or VCR), a separate monitor, and a sound component — usually wireless headphones. The choices you have range in complexity from simple, all-in-one packages to installation-intensive, multi-component systems.

Headrest monitors
In systems that involve separate components, LCD monitors, which generally range from 5 to 7 inches, are often mounted in the front-seat headrests. You can install your own screens in your factory headrests, or pickup headrests with the screens already installed.




Component monitors like this one from Clarion can be mounted in your headrests with the help of special brackets.

Some manufacturers produce mounting brackets that simply secure to the posts of the front-seat headrests. A monitor mounts on an arm of the bracket, which is usually adjustable. Other manufacturers have designed factory replacement headrests that have monitors already installed. They look remarkably like the factory originals, even down to the fabric color and texture, and simply take their place in the seat.




Factory-style headrests (like this one from Vizualogic) simply take the place of your vehicle's factory headrest, and feature monitors already installed. The fabric and color of the replacement headrest match your vehicle's interior.

In either case, once you've installed the monitor, you'll have to connect it to a separate player. Component DVD players (or videocassette players) can be mounted in out-of-the-way locations: center consoles are very popular choices; under the seat can make sense, as well. You'll just have to make sure you can access its front panel in order to insert and remove your discs. And don't forget, you can use an in-dash DVD receiver with backseat monitors; the receiver becomes the main media source in this scenario.

The video outputs of your player should be connected to the video inputs of the monitors with video cables specifically designed for mobile applications — they'll be better insulated than cables designed for use in-home, and will generally keep radiated "noise," which is always prevalent in a mobile environment, from sneaking into the system and degrading your video quality. You'll also have to connect the audio outputs of your player to an audio component in order to hear your DVDs; we'll discuss your audio options momentarily.


Overhead monitors
Fold-down overhead monitors are popular, too, especially in SUVs and minivans, where there's plenty of space. Between mounting and wiring them, they demand a fairly significant amount of installation expertise; if you go this route, you might consider letting a professional handle the installation.

Regardless of who installs it, however, there are certainly some inherent advantages to an overhead monitor. Mounting a monitor on the ceiling makes it much easier for all your backseat passengers to see the picture. This type of monitor is also well out of harm's way whenever you're loading or unloading cargo from your vehicle. Some include built-in dome lights, in case you have to mount it over your vehicle's factory dome light. Some are also compatible with housings that have been designed for specific vehicles (that let you retain factory ceiling-mounted controls and displays).

As with a headrest monitor, you'll have to connect an overhead monitor to a separate media player and to an audio component.



Overhead monitors, like this Panasonic model with built-in DVD player, secure to your vehicle's ceiling, and fold up and out of the way when not in use.

There are, however, overhead monitor packages that help make things significantly easier for you. Some feature DVD players built right into the housings, which reduces the number of wiring connections you have to make. Some overhead monitor/player combos even feature built-in wireless FM modulators, which beam the audio signal over an unused FM frequency directly to your factory stereo, as well as infrared transmitters, that send the audio signal wirelessly to a set of compatible headphones. These all-encompassing systems eliminate the need for you to run wiring all through your vehicle; your primary concern will focus solely on installing the monitor and housing on your vehicle's ceiling.

Player/monitor combos
The easiest solution of all in the backseat mobile video arena is a self-contained player/monitor combination. These usually simply strap onto the back of your vehicle's front seats (typically at the headrest) and plug into the cigarette lighter for power. They'll feature some sort of audio output (such as headphone jacks, and/or an RCA composite set of audio/video outputs). They're convenient, easy-to-install, and totally portable. The only drawbacks: their picture quality tends not to be quite as good as systems with separate components, and their sound-delivery options are slightly limited. They also might not install as neatly as or exactly where you'd like them to, which can in turn limit their visibility. But if you're looking for a "quick fix" that requires no installation work, these are certainly viable options.



DVD player/monitor combos, like this one from mPac, strap to the back of a front seat, and plug right into one of your vehicle's power outlets. They give you everything you need for instant, installation-free video entertainment.

Making sure you can hear your system
With any system, you'll have to find a way to hear the sound. A few monitors out there have audio inputs (so they'll receive the audio signal from the player) and jacks for wired headphones; simply plug the headphones in, and you have instant audio. Most likely, you'll want to connect the audio to a transmitter for wireless headphones.

There are two types of wireless headphones and transmitters: RF (radio frequency) and IR (infrared). In both cases, the audio output from your media source connects directly to the transmitter via audio patch cables. RF transmitters "broadcast" the audio signal over a specific radio frequency wavelength to its compatible set (or sets) of headphones. Because they use radio frequencies, the transmitters can be mounted anywhere in the vehicle; the headphones act as "antennas." These work remarkably well; the only potential drawback is that they might be susceptible to slight radio interference (although that's generally unlikely). IR transmitters "beam" the audio signal direcly to a set of compatible headphones. They aren't susceptible to interference like RF transmitters are, but the transmitter itself must be mounted within a direct line of sight of the headphones; obstacles will block the signal from reaching the headphones.



Wireless headphones, like these from Clarion, allow backseat passengers to listen to the video source privately.

You can also use your vehicle's sound system to play your video soundtracks, if you prefer. If your receiver has auxiliary inputs (as some aftermarket receivers do), you can connect the audio from your media source directly to them using audio patch cables. If your receiver doesn't have auxiliary inputs (as is the case with many aftermarket and nearly all factory receivers), you can use an FM modulator. The audio from your source connects directly to the modulator; the modulator then connects to your radio's antenna input (power and ground connections are required, too), and "broadcasts" the sound over an unused FM frequency.

As previously mentioned, you might find a system that uses a wireless FM modulator. It operates on the same principle as wired modulators, except it doesn't require you to make a direct connection to your radio's antenna input, which is remarkably convenient! Like wireless headphones, wireless modulators may fall prey to occasional interference, and the range of frequencies over which they can broadcast can be a bit more limited than those of hard-wired versions. But they can solve some very tricky installation problems, by eliminating the need for you to access the back of your radio.


4. Advanced accessories: surround sound and more




This Kenwood KVT-915DVD features built-in
surround-sound decoding for true
home-theater-style digital sound.


You can make your mobile theater sound like your home theater!
As with your home stereo, it's actually possible to get true 5.1 surround sound in a car! The cozy, enclosed nature of the vehicle makes it easy to hear the distinct channel separation. Your vehicle's front and rear speakers act as the front left and right and surround left and right channels. You'll have to add a center channel speaker (which can present some mounting challenges; consulting a professional is highly recommended, depending on your experience) and an amplified subwoofer to complete the speaker setup.

There are several ways to get surround sound in your car:
• Hook your Dolby Digital® and DTS®-compatible DVD player (or in-dash DVD receiver) up to a separate surround-sound decoder. This is usually done with an optical digital cable, although some brands have proprietary connections that work between their own components. It's very similar to a home setup. The signal from the decoder will then have to go to separate amplifiers. You'll need amplification for your front, rear, and center-channel speakers, as well as for your subwoofer. A four-channel amp will work for the front and rear speakers. You'll then either need separate amps for the center channel and subwoofer, or powered versions of both speakers (both of which are available). A very few in-dash DVD receivers let you loop back the audio signal from the decoder and use their internal amplifiers to power the front and rear speakers (which means you'll still need to amplify the center channel and sub).
• Install an in-dash receiver with built-in surround decoding. These receivers decode the digital surround-sound signal internally, and have all the speaker outputs you need, including center channel. All you have to add in this case is an amplified subwoofer.
• Use a multi-channel theater component amplifier.The mobile video market in 2004 witnessed the debut of five-channel amplifiers that feature built-in digital surround decoding. These offer front and rear speaker outputs, a center channel output, and a preamp output for connecting a separately amplified sub. These make for clean, powerful installations with excellent sound quality.
High-end accessories
Did you know that it's possible to get satellite television in your vehicle? Well, it is. We're not kidding.

The beauty of a comprehensive mobile video system is the number of entertainment options it affords you. In addition to movies and music, you can add video games, local and satellite television, even your camcorder to the mix. What you can add depends on how many audio/video inputs your system has. Some components (video games, notably) might also require items such as power inverters in order for you to operate them in your vehicle.

Adding multiple components makes multi-zone capable video systems all the more fun. For example, if you have two monitors, a game system, and a satellite radio tuner hooked up to an in-dash receiver with multi-zone capability, you can listen to XM over the car speakers, while one backseat passenger watches a DVD, and the other plays a video game. Now that's entertainment!

Whatever you choose to do with mobile video, whether you install a complex, multi-component system, or simply hang a DVD player/monitor combo on your front seat, once you've entered the world of mobile video, you'll never want to leave. Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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Engine cooling system

Claims


What is claimed is:

1. An engine cooling system which cools an engine by circulating cooling water in a circulation passage and controls a cooling degree of the engine according to an operating condition of the engine, the system including:

a flow rate regulating valve for regulating a circulation flow rate of the cooling water;

stop determining means for determining whether the engine is stopped; and

after-engine-stop control means for controlling the flow rate regulating valve to open at a predetermined opening whenever the engine is determined as being stopped by the stop determining means.

2. The engine cooling system according to claim 1, wherein the flow rate regulating valve includes a valve element, a valve seat corresponding to the valve element, an actuator for moving the valve element with respect to the valve seat,

the valve element is moved by operation of the actuator between a full-closed position in which the valve element is in full contact with the valve seat and a full-opened position in which the valve element is fully separated from the valve seat, and

the after-engine-stop control means, when the engine is determined as being stopped by the stop determining means, controls the actuator to move the valve element with respect to the valve seat to determine the predetermined opening degree.

3. The engine cooling system according to claim 2 further including an ignition switch which is operated to selectively start and stop the engine, wherein the stop determining means determines that the engine is stopped at the time when the ignition switch is turned off.

4. The engine cooling system according to claim 3, wherein the full-opened position corresponds to a 100% opening of the flow rate regulating valve, the full-closed position corresponds to a 0% opening, and the predetermined opening degree is a 50% opening with respect to the 100% opening.

5. The engine cooling system according to claim 3 further including cooling control means for controlling the cooling degree of the engine,

wherein the cooling control means controls the actuator of the flow rate regulating valve according to the operating condition of the engine to move the valve element for regulation of the circulation flow rate of the cooling water.

6. The engine cooling system according to claim 3, wherein the engine includes a cylinder block and an engine head both of which include a cooling-water passage including a water jacket, and the cooling-water passage is provided with an outlet and an inlet each of which is connected with a main piping line,

the main piping line includes a radiator, the flow rate regulating valve, and a water pump, which are disposed at predetermined positions respectively in the line,

the circulation passage includes the cooling-water passage and the main piping line, and

the water pump when actuated produces a flow of the cooling water in the main piping line to cause circulation of the cooling water through the cooling-water passage and the main piping line.

7. The engine cooling system according to claim 6 further including:

water temperature detection means which is disposed at an adjacent position to the outlet of the cooling-water passage and detects a temperature of the cooling water flowing out of the cooling-water passage;

operating condition detection means which detects the operating condition of the engine; and

cooling control means which controls the cooling degree of the engine by calculating a target water temperature according to the detected engine operating condition and feedback controlling the opening of the flow rate regulating valve based on the calculated target water temperature to bring the outlet side water temperature close to the target water temperature.

8. The engine cooling system according to claim 7, wherein the stop determining means, the after-engine-stop control means, and the cooling control means are constituted of an electronic control unit including a central processing unit, a memory, an external input circuit, and an external output circuit.

9. The engine cooling system according to claim 6 further including a by pass piping line disposed providing communication between a part of the main piping line positioned adjacent to the outlet of the cooling-water passage and the flow rate regulating valve,

wherein the valve element includes a first valve element for regulating a flow rate of the cooling water flowing through the main piping line and a second valve element for regulating a flow rate of the cooling water flowing through the bypass piping line, and

the valve seat includes a first valve seat corresponding to the first valve element and a second valve seat corresponding to the second valve element,

the first and second valve elements being moved simultaneously by operation of the actuator with respect to the corresponding first and second valve seats so that the first valve element is moved between a full-closed position in which the first valve element is in full contact with_the first valve seat and a full-opened position in which the valve element is fully separated from the first valve seat and the second valve element is moved between two closed positions in which the second valve element is in substantial contact with the second valve seat, the second valve element being fully opened at a predetermined position between the two closed positions.

10. The engine cooling system according to claim 9, wherein the full-opened position of the first valve element with respect to the first valve seat corresponds to a 100% opening and the full-closed position of the same corresponds to a 0% opening, and

the predetermined opening degree is a 50% opening with respect to the 100% opening.

11. The engine cooling system according to claim 10 further including cooling control means for controlling the cooling degree of the engine,

wherein the cooling control means controls the actuator of the flow rate regulating valve according to the operating condition of the engine to move the first and second valve elements for regulation of the circulation flow rate of the cooling water.

12. The engine cooling system according to claim 1, wherein the flow rate regulating valve includes a valve element, a valve seat corresponding to the valve element, an actuator for moving the valve element with respect to the valve seat,

the valve element is moved by operation of the actuator between a full-closed position in which the valve element is in full contact with the valve seat and a full-opened position in which the valve element is fully separated from the valve seat, and

the after-engine-stop control means controls the actuator to move the valve element to the full-closed position so that the valve element is brought into contact with the valve seat once and then move the valve element toward the full-opened position with reference to the full-closed position to determine the predetermined opening degree.

13. The engine cooling system according to claim 12 further including an ignition switch which is operated to selectively start and stop the engine, wherein the stop determining means determines that the engine is stopped at the time when the ignition switch is turned off.

14. The engine cooling system according to claim 13, wherein the full-opened position corresponds to a 100% opening of the flow rate regulating valve, the full-closed position corresponds to a 0% opening, and the predetermined opening degree is a 50% opening with respect to the 100% opening.

15. The engine cooling system according to claim 13 further including cooling control means for controlling the cooling degree of the engine,

wherein the cooling control means controls the actuator of the flow rate regulating valve according to the operating condition of the engine to move the valve element for regulation of the circulation flow rate of the cooling water.

16. The engine cooling system according to claim 13, wherein the engine includes a cylinder block and an engine head both of which include a cooling-water passage including a water jacket, and the cooling-water passage is provided with an outlet and an inlet each of which is connected with a main piping line,

the main piping line includes a radiator, the flow rate regulating valve, and a water pump, which are disposed at predetermined positions respectively in the line,

the circulation passage includes the cooling-water passage and the main piping line, and

the water pump when actuated produces a flow of the cooling water in the main piping line to cause circulation of the cooling water through the cooling-water passage and the main piping line.

17. The engine cooling system according to claim 16 further including:

water temperature detection means which is disposed at an adjacent position to the outlet of the cooling-water passage and detects a temperature of the cooling water flowing out of the cooling-water passage;

operating condition detection means which detects the operating condition of the engine; and

cooling control means which controls the cooling degree of the engine by calculating a target water temperature according to the detected engine operating condition and feedback controlling the opening of the flow rate regulating valve based on the calculated target water temperature to bring the outlet side water temperature close to the target water temperature.

18. The engine cooling system according to claim 17, wherein the stop determining means, the after-engine-stop control means, and the cooling control means are constituted of an electronic control unit including a central processing unit, a memory, an external input circuit, and an external output circuit.

19. The engine cooling system according to claim 16, further including a bypass piping line disposed providing communication between a part of the main piping line positioned adjacent to the outlet of the cooling-water passage and the flow rate regulating valve,

wherein the valve element includes a first valve element for regulating a flow rate of the cooling water flowing through the main piping line and a second valve element for regulating a flow rate of the cooling water flowing through the bypass piping line,

the valve seat includes a first valve seat corresponding to the first valve element and a second valve seat corresponding to the second valve element,

the first and second valve elements being moved simultaneously by operation of the actuator with respect to the corresponding first and second valve seats so that the first valve element is moved between a full-closed position in which the first valve element is in full contact with the first valve seat and a full-opened position in which the valve element is fully separated from the first valve seat and the second valve element is moved between two closed positions in which the second valve element is in substantial contact with the second valve seat, the second valve element being fully opened at a predetermined position between the two closed positions.

20. The engine cooling system according to claim 19, wherein the full-opened position of the first valve element with respect to the first valve seat corresponds to a 100% opening and the full-closed position of the same corresponds to a 0% opening, and

the predetermined opening degree is a 50% opening with respect to the 100% opening.



Related entries:

Water pump, cooling system


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How to keep the automatic transmission alive

Note, the information contained in this guide is for educational purposes only and cannot substitute for the advice of professional mechanic or authorized dealer. Different cars have different requirements; for information specific to your car consult your owner's manual or call your local dealer.
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Automatic transmission cut in half
The automatic transmission is one of the most complicated and thus one of the less reliable parts of the vehicle. The repair of an automatic transmission is complex and tends to be quite expensive. More than that, automatic transmission problem can make your car unsafe - some transmission defects may cause, for example, that the car can roll with the shifter in Park or drive forward with shifter in Neutral. On the other hand, if taking a good care of, your transmission can last you really long with no significant problems.
In this article you may find some simple tips how to prevent your automatic transmission from damage and keep it in a good shape. It doesn't require too much of your efforts - just periodical checking and regular maintenance.

Tip: Have you looked in your vehicle owner's manual? Try, it's a best source of information on your vehicle maintenance. You will be amazed how many useful info you may find in this book! Having more questions? Don't know what type of fluid to use? - just call local dealer service department and ask them, they have all the information and they will be pleased to help you.


What can damage your automatic transmission
Most of the transmission troubles start from overheating.
Under heavy load, such as towing a heavy trailer, rocking the vehicle from the snow, having continuous stop and go traffic in hot weather, racing, etc. the transmission overheats. At higher temperatures the transmission fluid burns loosing its lubricating qualities and becomes oxidized leaving deposits all over inside the transmission. Exposed to the heat the rubber seals and gaskets inside the transmission become hardened causing leaks. The metal parts warp and loose their strength. All this, sooner or later, results in transmission failure. For example, a friend of mine burnt the transmission when he was spinning the wheels too hard trying to free his shiny Audi from the snow on the next day after he bought it!
However, overheating is not the only reason - sometimes transmission breaks down because of poor design, due to lack of maintenance or after being rebuilt by inexperienced technician. Few other reasons: harsh driving, too low or too high transmission fluid level or wrong transmission fluid type - a person I know added gear oil into the automatic transmission... guess, what happen? - the transmission died after 40 minutes of driving!

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How to prevent the transmission from damage
- Regularly check your parking space for leaks. Doesn't matter, is it the engine oil leak, power steering fluid or transmission fluid; if you discover any, get it fixed before it caused something serious.
- Once in a while check the transmission fluid level and condition. Not all cars however have the automatic transmission dipstick, in some cars, for example, in late Volkswagen models, the transmission fluid can only be checked by the dealer. Consult with your owner's manual for details. If the transmission fluid level is too low, there is a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed.
- Change the fluid as often as it said in your owner's manual or when it becomes too dark (rather brown than red) or dirty.
Also, keep in mind that an automatic transmission can not be drained completely - there is always some transmission fluid left inside the transmission (the torque converter, in the valve body, etc.) which means you only can change about %60 of the fluid at once. This is one more reason to change it more often.
- Use only the same type of the transmission fluid as specified in the owner's manual or on the dipstick. Some vehicles (eg. Dodge Caravan) are very sensitive to fluid type
- Never shift to the Reverse or Parking until the car comes to a complete stop.
- Never shift from the Parking mode when engine rpm is higher than normal idle.
- Always hold a brakes down when shifting from Parking.
- The automatic transmission can be damaged if towing with the drive wheels on the road. Always use a dolly or place powered wheels on the towing platform (if the vehicle is front wheel drive - tow it from the front leaving rear wheels on the road.
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How to use overdrive
Generally speaking, overdrive (O/D) is the highest gear in the transmission. On most cars the automatic transmission has 3 speeds and Overdrive (forth speed). Overdrive allows the engine to have less rpm with higher speed in order to have better fuel efficiency. When you switch it on, you allow the transmission to shift into overdrive mode after the certain speed is reached (usually 30 - 40 mph depending on the load). When it's off, you limit transmission shifting by third speed. In normal driving condition the overdrive should be always on. You may need to switch it off if you drive in mountains area. [The automatic transmission automatically shifts from OD to the 3-th gear when it feel more load. When it feels less load it shifts back to the O/D, but under certain conditions, e.g: driving uphill or towing a trailer, the transmission can not decide to stay in OD or to shift into 3-th speed and it starts to shift back and forth. That's the time you may switch it off and help the transmission to decide.] . You also may need to switch it off when you want to slowdown using the engine braking, for example, driving downhill. [For more details, check your owner's manual]
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Servicing your transmission
I'd recommend to go for a service to your car make dealer - they have original parts, they know exactly what type of the fluid to use and their technicians are highly trained to service particular vehicle model. Even if you go to the independent garage, always ask to use original parts - sometimes, the aftermarket parts are not of as good quality as original.
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When it's time to go to the transmission shop
If you experience any problems with your transmission such as leaks, noises, problems with shifting, etc. (Follow this link to learn more:
• How to check an automatic transmission) - don't wait until the problem will become worse and car will finally stop somewhere on a highway, visit your trusted local transmission shop. Automatic transmission problems never disappear by themselves. Also, when going for the repair, try to explain to service person more detailed - what exactly problem you experience, when it happens, what does it look like. It will be easier for them to repair the transmission. Before going to the transmission shop for the repair ask them about the warranty - the longer warranty they will give you, the better will be the repair.


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If you are looking for more detailed technical information
If you want to find more technical information about you car such as all kind of diagrams (transmission diagram, engine diagrams, vacuum line diagram, electrical diagram, etc.) repair information, specification, fluids type, maintenance schedule, component location, service bulletins and so on, there is a website which for a small fee allows you to browse all such an information for almost any car model on-line. To learn more visit this page:
• Where to find technical information about your car


by Vlad Samarin
Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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Be Nice to Your Car

Five things to never do to your car

Most people know not to stick their fingers through the bars at the zoo -- though some don't and get to learn from the experience. Likewise, there are things you should never do to your car or truck that can have consequences every bit as unpleasant -- and sometimes as permanent -- as offering your succulent fingertips to a hungry rhesus monkey. These include:

Sunny day car wash: Dousing your car with water in bright sunlight can be ruinously bad for its finish. First, the sun heats up the metal to the point it's scalding hot to the touch. Then, you add some nice tepid tap water -- which is immediately boiled off the finish, along with caustic soap and whatever grime you didn't clear off -- while any remaining rivulets of moisture act like a magnifying glass, amping-up the power of the sun's murderous rays. The end result is not pretty -- and cosmetics aside, you've cut into the resale/trade-in value of your vehicle by flailing its finish. New cars with base/clear-coat paints are especially vulnerable to sun damage, because once the very thin clear topcoat is burned away or otherwise damaged, the paint will never shine again, no matter how hard you wax and polish. Only an expensive repaint will fix things. It’s far better to wash on cloudy, overcast days -- or at least in the shade, away from direct sunlight. A great time to wash a car is just after dawn -- and in the late afternoon, just as the sun is slipping past the horizon.

Pressure washing a modern car's engine: A grimy engine that runs properly is much better than a clean engine that won't -- which is what you risk if you force jets of water past rubber seals and into the sensitive electronics that are fitted to all modern, computer-controlled engines. There's a reason for the hood (and all those protective coverings). They're there to prevent moisture and contaminants from wreaking havoc with the sensors, wiring harnesses, sending units and other components that like to be sprayed with water about as much as your typical house cat. Excess moisture can short-out electrical parts, cause intermittent malfunctions (including stalling for no reason, hard-starting, rough-running) and make dashboard "check engine" light flash (or stay on) for no apparent reason. It's OK to degrease your engine with a garden hose if you like to keep it clean; just don't use high-pressure sprayers like you find in self-serve car washes as they can force water past rubber seals and weather stripping into places it isn't supposed to go.

Overloading the alternator/charging system: Teens used to be into exhaust headers and big Holley carburetors. Now they're into boom-boom audio systems -- bass reflectors and subwoofers that take up most of the trunk and create enough racket to be heard in a different time zone. Aesthetics aside, a common problem with installing this kind of gear is overtaxing the factory-installed alternator and charging system, which may not be able to handle the additional demand. What typically happens is the overtaxed alternator fails to keep the battery charged -- so it rapidly drains and the car can't be started one morning. Frequent replacement of the battery becomes necessary -- but that only crutches the problem. The alternator itself eventually fails prematurely due to the excess loads -- an expensive part to burn up for no good reason. And sometimes, the car doesn't run right -- or won't run at all -- because there is insufficient voltage to operate the electric fuel pump, fuel injection system and other components because of the excess "draw" of aftermarket audio gear. Those planning on putting in a monster stereo (or any high-load aftermarket electronics) should check whether they ought to also install a high-output alternator that's equal to the job. It beats having to buy a new battery every month.

"Universal fit" wheels: Replacing the wheels that came with the car is a popular way to personalize a vehicle. But don't make the mistake of buying "universal fit" wheels that are designed to fit multiple vehicles using shims and "make it fit" bolt patterns. This can be extremely dangerous, yet people do it all the time. Automotive wheels are not like generic aspirin; they're very specific to the application -- and it's critical that such things as backspacing and bolt pattern be correct for your particular vehicle. Shims of any kind are an extreme no-no. And don't try and fit metric rims on a car designed for no-metric -- and vice-versa. Before you buy any non-factory wheel for your vehicle, consult the manufacturer to make sure it was designed to fit. Use the correct lug nuts, too. (It's often the case that you must swap them along with the wheels for the changeover to be safe.) A good tire shop can be of assistance here.

Tow an automatic-equipped car with drive wheels down: If you want to destroy your automatic transmission or greatly reduce its service life, a fast way to do it is to allow the vehicle to be towed with its drive wheels down. An automatic transmission uses hydraulic fluid under high pressure to transfer the engine's power to the road. The hydraulic fluid also lubricates the transmission's internal parts -- but only when the transmission's torque converter is being turned by the running engine. When the engine's not running -- as when the vehicle is being towed -- the torque converter isn't pumping pressurized fluid through the transmission, so there's no lubrication. But if the drive wheels are down and turning, the transmission is being "run" -- without proper lubrication.

It's like running the engine without an oil pump, and the results can be just as ugly. Therefore, if you are about your automatic-equipped car or truck, insist on a rollback truck if you need a tow. Instead of dragging the vehicle, the entire car is winched aboard the rollback, tightly secured and carted off. More and more towing companies are using rollbacks rather than old-style tow trucks because they're safer -- and limit the potential for damage to the towed vehicle.Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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THE JAGUAR V12 ENGINE

XJ-S and Saloon - 5.3 and 6 litre. V12 Types. There are essentially 2 variants of the Jaguar V12 engine with respect to the cylinder head/combustion chamber design. In its original form, produced from 1971 to 1981, the inlet and exhaust valves were situated alongside each other and the cylinder heads formed a flat top to a combustion chamber in the form of a bowl in the piston crown (diagram 1). Apart from when the piston is at the top of the bore the valves are completely unobstructed and provide excellent flow capability. For that reason most high power and racing V12s are based on this early "flat head" engine. The drawback of the arrangement is poor part throttle efficiency which forced Jaguar to investigate ways of drastically improving the highway cruise fuel consumption. This resulted in the so-called HE V12 which entered production in 1981 and applied to all production V12s after that time. The new arrangement has the exhaust valve recessed deeply into the cylinder head to form a compact oval chamber with the spark plug located at one end. As the flat topped piston approaches the top of the bore it forces much of the charge into a shallow channel around the inlet valve from where it squirts tangentially to generate a high speed vortex in the chamber (diagram 2 & 3). This creates ideal conditions in which to burn relatively weak mixtures at high compression ratios, thereby achieving the required cruise fuel efficiency. Although the power output of the production HE V12 is on a par with the best of the flat head engines the potential for significant further power increases is compromised by the pocketed exhaust valve. It is hard to squeeze more than about 400 b.h.p. out of an HE V12. European flat head V12s had 9:1 compression ratio and US emission versions had 7.8:1 but the star was the 10:1 compression version made for just one year from mid-1980. HE V12s were normally 12.5:1 compression or 11.5:1 for emission versions and all Marelli 5.3 engines. The 6 litre ran at 11:1 compression. For those who are interested there are some typical V12 power and torque curves in the 'V12 Archives' section. Performance Upgrades. We have identified 4 key areas in which performance and driver satisfaction can be markedly improved at relatively modest cost. Most of these conversions are applicable to any V12 with electronic fuel injection. 1: The HE V12 engine in particular is compromised by the need to achieve the most favourable steady state economy figures. The practical result is that in everyday urban traffic situations the driver often finds the transmission part-throttle downshifting, thereby using more fuel, to achieve a reasonable level of performance. We have found that improving the response from the engine in part throttle operation will often deliver the same performance in a higher gear, thus the overall fuel consumption is hardly altered even though the engine is much livelier. We found that quite minor changes to the basic fuel program can achieve this effect but even better results can be obtained by also magnifying the response to throttle movement. This makes the engine feel like the thoroughbred that it should be and is the purpose of our SUPER ENHANCED ECU. Surprisingly, improving the engine response in this way also profoundly changes the way the transmission responds when the car is driven with more enthusiasm. The more pronounced change of vacuum signal to the transmission seems to have the effect of noticeably sharpening up the shift pattern and in combination with the improved engine response, the 3 speed auto transmission becomes much easier to live with. The Super Enhanced ECU is not available for the earlier (1975-80) V12s using Bosch/Lucas D Jetronic injection although we do provide modified ECUs for when those engines are to be fitted with our other performance conversions. 2: The factory induction system is fundamentally well designed as one might expect but the intakes are deliberately small as a means of limiting intake noise. It is a simple matter to enlarge the intakes to 3" or so diameter but many people would then find the intake noise to be excessive if not downright unpleasant (particularly on ABS cars with the forward mounted filter boxes). Our solution is to enlarge the standard intakes slightly and add a supplementary intake to each air filter housing drawing air from below. Then we replace the original paper air filters with specially made low loss foam filters (washable, not throw-away) and we bore out the throttles from 2.5" to 2.875" diameter for which we make new butterfly discs with the correct closing angle geometry and machine a radiused entry instead of the original sharp edge. This completes the primary aim of getting more air into the engine with good equality of flow to the individual cylinders. Allied to a Super Enhanced ECU this all constitutes our SUPER ENHANCED LARGE THROTTLE KIT producing around 25 b.h.p. extra on a standard V12. The Large Throttle kit is also available for the 1975-80 V12 for which a modified ECU is supplied. This is the best selling V12 performance conversion of all time - we have sold many hundreds since introducing it in 1986. The Large Throttle kit will actually pass enough air to produce around 450 b.h.p. from a fully developed racing engine using modified production based inlet manifolds but the same throttles on our Ram Plenum manifolds (see V12 Archives) proved good enough for nearly 600 b.h.p. on the appropriate engine. However people with more modest ambitions will find that the Large Throttle kit works well enough on a standard engine to cheer the car up noticeably without ruining its Jaguar qualities. Another way round the noise problem is to arrange ducting through the inner wing to collect air from behind the headlights - so called "cool air ducts" - but whilst cool air is certainly good for power, it is bad for cruise economy. The rule about air temperature is simple, cool for power (maximum charge density), hot for economy (minimum charge density to reduce losses due to throttling). In this respect the standard arrangement is much better than many people think. Sure, the under-bonnet air temperature at idle can easily get up around 70 C but the faster the car goes the lower the air temperature falls - simply because the radiator is passing its heat to a much larger quantity of air per second - so at 80 m.p.h. the engine is breathing air at around 45 C. That's still a bit higher than the ideal but not nearly so bad as many people think. Obviously the arrangement helps to maximise economy in moderate speed urban cruise without compromising top end power too much. From a power point of view it is just as important to increase the restricted intake area as to concentrate on air temperature alone, but the noise level must remain acceptable. Jaguar's solution on the 6 litre XJ-S was to take the intakes over the top of the radiator but despite small "tuning holes" in the ducts to kill resonance, to some people those engines display an unpleasant low speed drone. 3: We found that the torque, or mid-range power, of the engine could be noticeably improved by subtle changes to the individual passages in the inlet manifolds leading to each cylinder. Jaguar designed their V12 inlet manifolds originally in the 1960s when manufacturing techniques were such that pragmatism often took precedence over idealism. Certainly the importance of things like ram length and tract bellmouths was well enough known but Walter Hassan's design team had no choice but to compromise for space and budget reasons. The basic design has remained the same ever since, only changing in detail for the different engine specifications over the years. Nevertheless it is instructive that when the combined brains of Cosworth and Ford's RVT group recently created the much vaunted V12 for Aston Martin they equipped it with inlet manifolds of identical layout, but in modernised form. Taking the manifolds closer to the ideal is not just a simple matter of making the passages bigger - it is about optimising the length and entry profile into each of the tracts to better exploit induced harmonic resonances in the air as it flows towards the cylinder. Any tube containing air can be made to resonate at certain critical frequencies in the manner of an organ pipe. Such is the case with the inlet tracts of an engine and if the natural resonance frequencies can be matched to the engine speed then a mild supercharging effect can be induced. Get it wrong and the reverse will apply, resulting in a loss of performance. Our own experiments suggested that the individual tracts were shorter than the ideal for a wide torque band so we concluded that considerable improvement would be possible if we extended them by adding bell-mouthed ram pipes inside the manifold. These are added after cutting the manifold open and then it is carefully welded back together and finished to look just like the standard item. An extra option is to have the grooved manifold tops of earlier cars reworked to be exactly like the face-lifted 92 MY cars with framed "Jaguar V12" badges. Adding these manifolds to our Large Throttle Conversion and Super Enhanced ECU constitutes our PLUS TORQUE CONVERSION which provides clear benefits over almost the whole speed range. Whilst very effective on the 5.3 V12 the gains on the 6.0 V12 are better still. A short ram pipe version is available for racing with more emphasis on top end power (see racing notes at end). One of our customers reported the following acceleration time gains from fitting the Plus Torque Conversion to a 1994 6 litre XJ-S. Standard Plus Torque 0-60 6.6 5.3 0-100; 16 12.8 50-70 6 5 60-80 4 3 4. The design of the exhaust system is dominated by considerations such as refinement and, of course, emissions legislation. Many people think that the exhaust system on a modern Jaguar is a little too quiet for a car with high performance pretensions and it is quite possible to obtain a reasonable increase in performance allied to a pleasing exhaust note without becoming an antisocial monster. The simplest way of doing this is to replace the first silencer boxes below the rear seats with our SILENCER SUBSTITUTE PIPES for a gain of 15-20 b.h.p. The noise level is not excessive and they can be used on most cars with or without catalysts. Our LARGE BORE EXHAUST SYSTEM with all straight-through silencers removes virtually all the restriction from the system but in reality only gives about 5-10 b.h.p. more than the Silencer Substitute Pipes so is only really worth thinking about if the complete system is in need of renewal. Our TT EXTRACTOR system is a tuned front section designed specifically to boost mid-range torque (which is what most people find useful). The original Y pipes below the standard manifolds (headers) are replaced by pairs of pipes of tuned length and diameter which merge just behind the transmission then feed through short adapters onto a pair of Silencer Substitute Pipes. From that point on the original system can be retained, renewed as a complete TT EXTRACTOR system, or replaced by a Large Bore Rear system for extra top end power but this option does tend to be noisier than some people would like for road use. The TT system significantly outperforms a Large Bore system so much so that fueling changes (included in the kit) are essential for it to work properly. The adapter pipes can be supplied with lambda sensor tappings but heated sensors must be used because of the distance from the engine. A wiring extension kit is included and we can supply heated lambda sensors as an extra. A version of the TT EXTRACTOR system is also available for the V12 E Type but this is only available as a complete system because the centre silencer can no longer be used. Special rear boxes had to be developed to achieve an appropriate blend of performance and noise suppression. V12 E Types with the standard carburettors do not need any fueling changes as they tend to be self regulating but those cars that have been converted to fuel injection require similar changes (included) to other EFI V12s. Finally there is our new TT SUPER SPORT system for the V12 E Type - the ultimate system for road or track. Those who like to hear their V12 on full song will love it, but it is definitely not for the fainthearted. RACING OPTIONS. Most of our road car performance conversions are available in slightly different forms for racing. Because intake noise is not a problem on a race car we can supply the air filter assemblies for the Large Throttle Kit with 3" diameter bell-mouth intakes on the front, the Racing High Torque inlet manifolds have shorter internal bell-mouths, and the Racing TT Exhaust has shorter pipe lengths before the merge point and should be used in combination with a large bore rear section. In each case the effectiveness is pushed higher up the speed range where it is more useful on the track. Revised ECU mapping can be supplied where necessary. An Adjustable ECU is often useful for racing so that the fueling can be easily altered as different modifications are added or refined. source: jagweb

Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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Water pump, cooling system

Automotive illustrated glossary

Description
A Water pump is an important part of the engine cooling system. It provides circulation of the engine coolant (antifreeze) through the cooling system (see the top picture).
A water pump moves the coolant through the passages (water jackets) in the engine cylinder block and cylinder head and then out into the radiator. This helps to remove the excessive heat from the engine; the hot coolant passes through the radiator where it cools down and then returns back to the engine.
A water pump is usually driven by the engine through the V-belt or serpentine belt. Sometimes it's driven by a timing belt.
A water pump consists of the housing with the shaft rotating on the bearing pressed inside.
At the outer side there is a pulley mounted on the shaft. At the inner side there is a seal to keep the coolant from leaking out and the impeller that acts like a centrifugal pump (see the lower picture).

Water pump problems
Typical water pump problems include coolant leaks, noisy or defective bearing, damaged or corroded impeller.
Faulty water pump might cause the engine to overheat, which can result in serious engine damage. If defective, a water pump is replaced as a unit.

Is it worth to replace a water pump when a timing belt is being replaced?
Sometimes you might be suggested to replace the water pump at the same time the timing belt is being replaced. In cases when a water pump is driven by a timing belt it's worth to do because it involves very little extra labor, plus, a water pump is subject to wear anyway. As long as the original parts are being used, I'd recommend to go for it.

If you're looking for information how to replace a water pump or other repair information on your car, you can buy an online subscription from Alldata DIY and get an instant access to the repair manual for your car.


[Source: samarins.com]


Related entries:

Engine cooling system
Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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Illustrated auto glossary

Alternator

The alternator (generator) supplies electric power for the vehicle's electric systems and also recharges the battery when the engine is running. If it fails, the engine will continue to run using the battery power, but the car will eventually stop as soon as the battery will be completely discharged. When the alternator fails, there is a warning light on the instrument panel that comes on with the engine running. Usually it's something like or "charge" warning light. If you see that sign on your instrument panel while driving, have your vehicle inspected before it dies on you

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Ball Joint

A ball joint is a part of a vehicle front suspension. Most cars have one or two ball joints at each front wheel. When a ball joint becomes bad, a vehicle could be unsafe to drive; a ball joint, when badly worn, can disjoin causing the vehicle to lose control unexpectedly. One of the possible indication of a bad ball joint could be a knocking noise coming from the front end, particularly while driving over bumps or making sharp turns. If you suspect your vehicle has a bad ball joint or any other suspension component, have your car inspected as soon as you can, it can be unsafe to drive. It's recommended to check the vehicle's chassis in a garage on a lift at least once a year to discover potential problems with suspension, brakes and other components.

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Battery

The battery provides electric power to start the car. I get many questions like "My car doesn't start, it only makes a click-click noise when I'm trying to start it" - this is most likely the result of the battery having decided to quit. Unfortunately, usually it happens unexpectedly - the battery just stops working one day. If your vehicle doesn't start and you suspect the battery, there is a simple way to check it. Try switching the wipers on - if they move very slowly, a lot slower than usual (too low voltage) the battery is probably discharged or dead.

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Continuously Variable Transmission

Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) shares some components and principles to a conventional automatic transmission - it has a torque converter and operated by the transmission fluid pressure. The difference is that it has no gears. Instead there are two pulleys connected by a special belt. The size of each of the pulleys can be varied within certain limits using hydraulic pressure and as a result the gear ratio can be changed continuously. It drives like conventional automatic transmission with the difference that there is no shifting - gear ration changes continuously according to the driving conditions. Nissan Murano, Saturn Vue, Audi A4, Honda Civic Hybrid are among the few models featuring the CVT.

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Driven-by-wire

If older vehicles use cable or mechanical link to operate the throttle, many of the new cars have electronic, "driven-by-wire" throttle control. This means that there is no longer a mechanical connection between the gas pedal and the throttle: There is a sensor connected to the gas pedal. Once you step on the gas pedal, it sends the signal to the vehicle's computer, which in turn opens the throttle using an electronic actuator. The actuator helps optimize engine performance by keeping the emission level low. Also, there is no more need for additional idle control and cruise control systems - these functions are controlled by the vehicle computer using the same electronic throttle actuator.

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EGR system

The EGR system (Exhaust Gas Recirculation system) is designed to reduce emissions. To be precise, it lowers the amount of nitrogen oxides (NOx) in the exhaust emissions. Nitrogen oxides are formed at very high combustion temperatures. What the EGR system actually does is direct part of the exhaust gases back into the intake manifold, which in turn helps reduce the combustion temperature and consequently lower the amount of NOx in the exhaust gases. The EGR flow is controlled by the engine computer which opens or closes the EGR valve depending on the operating conditions. One of the most common problems related to EGR is that the passages or the EGR valve itself getting clogged with carbon deposits causing restrictions to the EGR gas flow. This turns the "check engine" light on and sets the code, for example, PO401 - insufficient EGR flow (this was a common problem for the Acura / Honda V6 engine, for example). This problem happens mostly if a car is driven for only short trips so it can't warm up fully, or when the oil is not changed regularly.

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Overdrive

Generally speaking, overdrive (O/D) is the highest gear in the transmission. On most cars the automatic transmission has three or four speeds and overdrive (which is fourth or fifth speed accordingly). Overdrive allows the engine to have less rpm with higher speed for better fuel efficiency. When you switch it ON, you allow the transmission to shift into overdrive mode after a certain speed has been reached (usually 30-40 mph depending on the load). When it's OFF, you limit transmission shifting to third or fourth speed, not allowing the transmission to shift into overdrive.
In normal driving conditions the overdrive should be always ON. You may need to switch it OFF if you drive in a mountainous area.
[The automatic transmission automatically shifts from O/D to the lower gear when it feels more load. When it feels less load it shifts back to O/D, but under certain conditions, e.g., driving uphill or towing a trailer, the transmission cannot decide whether to stay in O/D or shift into 3rd speed and it starts shifting back and forth. That's the time when you may switch the O/D off and help the transmission to decide].
You also may need to switch the Overdrive OFF when you want to slow down using the engine braking, for example, when driving downhill. For more details, check your owner's manual.

[Source: samarins.com]Source URL: https://automotivetrendnews.blogspot.com/search/label/car%20maintenance
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